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It has been restored twice: the first under the reign of
Doña Urraca, around 1101; and the second around 1149
under Alfonso VII´s reign. There is a legend that
explains the present location of the remains of the saint.
It states that, one day, during a plague, people took San
Isidoro´s body in procession to a village called Trobajo
del Camino, near Leon.
All the people who carried the body walked barefoot while
they sang hymns in order to repel diseases. Then, the body
became heavier, and nobody could carry it or even raise
it. The King of Leon fell into a rage and ordered them to
build a church over the remains. But the Queen prayed to
San Isidoro, and some children were able to take the remains
back to Leon, where the people built a chapel.
The French Romanesque style predominates
in the church. The temple, Royal Basilica of San Isidoro,
consists of a Latin cross shape with three naves and three
apses crowned by a square tower, the Cock´s Tower.
The basilica contains many Renaissance paintings.
Many illustrate the life of Christ, and motifs and details
from nature. The capitals in its interior are very interesting.
They represent scenes from nature and the beast. The themes
illustrated by the capitals are similar to those represented
by the cornices in the church of San Martín of Fromista.
Both are related to nature, but San Martín´s
cornices are located on the exterior, while San Isidoro´s
capitals are in the interior. The capitals include magnificent
plants of different sizes, grotesque figures of animals,
men and a combination of both.
On the ceiling and walls of the Royal Pantheon
is one of the most beautiful examples of the Spanish Romanesque
frescoes. The ceiling is divided in three parts. The frescoes
cover it completely, and border the upper part of the capitals.
On the center is represented the figure of Christ, followed
by the four Gospels : San Mateo represented as a winged
man; San Lucas as a bull; San Marcos as a lion; and San
Juan as an eagle.
The composition produces an impression of movement when
looked from below. The colours are not as bright as the
frescoes included in the church of San Clemente, another
masterspiece of its kind. In fact in the basilica just a
few colours can be found: white, brown, blue and some ochres,
but the combination of those, however modest, achieves an
atmosphere of estability and serenity that extends to the
viewer.
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